PASOLA: RITUAL WAR IN INDONESIA’S WILD EAST
by Campbell Bridge

The truly wild and remote character of eastern Indonesia was publicized by the remarkable British adventurers Lawrence and Lorne Blair in the book and television series of their extraordinary 10-year journey entitled “Ring of Fire: An Indonesian Odyssey”. To identify one eastern Indonesian island – Sumba – as particularly unusual among an island nation which itself comprises over 7000 islands inhabited by people who speak over 500 languages is bold. Even by the standards of Indonesia’s diversity, Sumba stands out as an extraordinarily wild and remote place.

Sumba is part of the lesser Sunda island group. The group is renowned for its volcanoes and the giant lizards or “dragons” of Komodo. Little is known of the Sumbanese people other than their reputation as head hunters, warriors and slave traders. The influence of the Dutch was minimal, allowing the unique culture to subsist to the present day.

Animist beliefs including ancestor worship remain dominant among much of the population. Neither Islam nor Christianity has come to dominate the cultural landscape. The few travelers who venture east far beyond Bali to Sumba encounter spectacular traditional villages comprising towering thatched-roof-peaked houses and megalithic grave sites. Everywhere one looks, there are powerful reminders of the bond between the Sumbanese and their ancestors.

Religious rituals, many involving animal sacrifices, form an integral part of life on Sumba. There is no ritual more stunning than the festival of Pasola, which takes place over four days in February and March each year.

Pasola is a simulated war fought out by competing teams of dozens of horse riders armed with wooden spears representing different villages. The riders use no saddles or stirrups. The spears are not sharpened, but they are certainly potentially lethal. A primary object of the game is to knock one’s opponents off his horse with a spear. The “game” is spectacular. It is very dangerous for the participants and non-vigilant spectators alike. Injuries and death are not unknown.

The full moon determines the timing of the Pasola. The precise date is dependant on the arrival of nyale, or beach worms, on the beaches of western Sumba in February and Central Sumba in March. The actual date is determined by the local shaman a couple of weeks before each Pasola.

The nocturnal precursor to the actual staging of the event involves the shaman engaging in a series of incantations the night before in the village where the event is to be held. As the nyale play an integral part of the ritual, the setting of the next day’s events is in a spectacular location on, or adjacent to, the beach.
On Pasola day at dawn the crowd started to gather near a remote beach in West Sumba. The atmosphere was festive, but Pasola is obviously a major event of spiritual significance in the lives of the people. Men and women were dressed in their finest ikat, the exquisite woven fabric for which Sumba is famous. As the crowd grew, the Shaman continued his incantations. Pigs and a buffalo were sacrificed. The tension mounted as all present awaited the riders.

Suddenly the masses parted. Riders and horses dressed in traditional in battle regalia forced their way through the people to take up their positions at each end of the Pasola “arena”. The battle-ground was nothing more than a cleared field little bigger than a football pitch. The shaman and local dignitaries entered the field in procession, made their final intercessions and the war began.

As the conflict commenced, individual warriors rode their horses towards enemy “lines”. Some charges were feints designed to test the diffences. Some were attempts to lure enemy riders out into a trap. Some charges were ignored. Others were met with a furious counterattack and a fusillade of spears.

The proficiency of the riders was wonderful to watch. Without stirrups, they controlled the horses with exceptional skill. Spears flew in all directions; most were skillfully evaded. Some riders were able to catch spears hurled at them in midair. From time to time a warrior in full flight was struck by a spear. He collapsed from his horse to the ground to the wild applause of the crowd. There was no armor or protection. Although some blood was shed by the riders, the fact that no-one was killed or maimed was miraculous.

The battle continued for several hours into the early afternoon. Tempers of the participants and crowd became frayed. From time to time, some violence on the battle ground would spill into the crowd, and sections joined the battle on foot. Fortunately, no more serious hostilities eventuated, although my guide made it very clear to me that things were capable of getting very ugly very quickly. If he gave the word, we were to leave the area immediately.

In mid afternoon, one side was proclaimed the victor, and the Pasola was over.

The whole event leaves one exhausted but exhilarated. It is very rare for such an event to live up to, and far exceed, one’s expectations.
Should you interested to attend the event, please find our recommended package as follows:

SUMBA PASOLA PACKAGE

Duration : 4 Days 3 Nights
Departure : 26 Peb & 05 March 2009

Day 01 DENPASAR-TAMBOLAKA-WAIKABUBAK (West Sumba Island)
Pick up service at your hotel in Bali and transfer to the airport to catch domestic flight leaving for Tambolaka in West Sumba. Upon arrival at Tambolaka airport, meeting service and direct transfer to Manandang Hotel or similar. Lunch and dinner provided. Afternoon visiting Puu Naga, Tambeler and Tarung the most bautiful traditional Sumba village with their unique architecture.
Day 02 WAIKABUBAK-WANOKAKA-WAIKABUBAK
After breakfast, depart to Wanokaka where the Pasola event takes place. This is a ritual ceremony - it does not allow guests to participate in the event. All meals provided. Dinner and overnight are at Manandang Hotel or similar.
Day 03 WAIKABUBAK-KODI-WAIKABUBAK
After breakfast, drive to Kodi district with enroute stop at Tambolaka and Waimangura village. Arrive at Kodi visit Ratenegaro and Pronobaroro village that have the highest roofs and biggest tombs on the island. Return to Waikabubak or proceed to Waingapu to catch a departure flight in the next day. All meals provided. Dinner and overnight are at Manandang Hotel or similar.
Day 04 TAMBOLAKA OR WAINGAPU-DENPASAR
After breakfast, morning visit to Kawangu and Prailiu village to see the "masterpiece" artwork of handicraft textile, traditional houses and tombs of Merapu cosmic religion. Transfer to the airport to return to Bali. Upon arrival in Bali, direct transfer to your original hotel.

PRICE PER PERSON IN US DOLLAR - Minimum 2 Adults
Adult : USD 475.00
Child 04-10 Yrs : USD 385.00
Infant : USD 95.00

PRICE INCLUDES:
Transfers and tours as specified in the program
Accommodation on twin sharing basis
Fullboard Meals
Entrance fees, porters and donations
Coffee, tea and mineral water
Return flight tickets Denpasar-Tambolaka-Denpasar
Airport taxes
English Speaking Guide

PRICE EXCLUDES:
Any personal expenditure such as laundry, phone calls, tipping, etc
Soft drinks, juices and alcoholic drinks

Book Now to Fax: 0361-8424945 E-mail: info@florestrails.com

Komodo Conservation Fund - Contributing To the Future of Komodo National Park
New Conservation Fund will help meet important conservation, community development and ecotourism objectives and provide added value for all visitors to the Park

From May 1 2006, all visitors to Komodo National Park will pay a Contribution to Conservation Fund. This UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site and Man and Biosphere Reserve is among the most spectacular natural areas not only in Indonesia but the world. Only by visitors contributing to the Fund, can the Park’s unique marine and terrestrial biodiversity be protected and preserved for future generations.
Revenue will directly support and benefit conservation (monitoring, rehabilitation, research and facilitating surveillance), community development (alternative livelihoods, training and capacity building, micro-financing, improvement of public services and a broad range of health and education initiatives), eco-tourism (reconstruction of jetties, information centres, restaurants, observation points and mooring buoys) and international destination marketing and promotion.

Komodo National Park includes three major islands: Komodo, Rinca and Padar, as well as numerous smaller islands creating a total surface area (marine and land) of 1,817km. As well as being home to the iconic Komodo dragon, the Park provides refuge for many other notable terrestrial species including the orange-footed scrub fowl, an endemic rat, and the Timor deer. Furthermore, the Park includes one of the world’s richest and most diverse marine environments including coral reefs, mangroves, seagrass beds, seamounts, and semi-enclosed bays. These habitats harbor more than 1,000 species of fish, some 260 species of reef-building coral, and 70 species of sponges. Dugong, sharks, manta rays, at least 14 species of whales, dolphins, and sea turtles also make Komodo National Park their home. Naturally, the Park plays an important role in drawing tourists to the West Manggarai area and, in turn, creates valuable jobs for local communities. As such, your contribution is an investment not only in the future of the Park but in the lives of the communities who live there.

The amount of Contribution to Conservation Fund depends on the length of stay in Komodo National Park. For the period May 2006 to December 2006, contributions per visitor are as follows:
Foreign Visitor
1-3 Days: USD 15.00
4-8 Days: USD 25.00
9-15 Days: USD 35.00
16 Days+ : USD 45.00

Indonesian Nationality & KITAS Holder
1-3 Days: Rp 75.000
4-8 Days: Rp 125.000
9-15 Days: Rp 175.000
16 Days+ : Rp 225.000

A 50 percent discount will be granted for foreign visitors aged below 16 years. Contributions are payable in US$ but the Indonesia rupiah is equivalent at the prevailing rate. Visitors will receive an entrance ticket that remains valid for one visit.

The Contribution to Conservation Fund was launched in Labuan Bajo, West Manggarai and Denpasar, Bali on April 20 and April 21, respectively. The events were officiated and approved by The Head of West Manggarai Regency Drs. Fidelis Pranda and The Head of Komodo National Park Authority Ir. Indra Arinal.

In addition to the Contribution to Conservation Fund, visitors to the Park must also pay a National Park Entrance Fee (Ministry of Forestry Decree No. 363/Kpts-II/1997 and No. 878/Kpts-II/1992) and a West Manggarai Compensation Fee (West Manggarai Decree No. 22 Year 2005 concerning Entrance Fee Compensation for Tourism Objects in West Manggarai Regency).
Fee Length of Stay Foreign/KITAS Domestic
KNP – Entrance Fee 1 – 3 days Rp. 20,000,- Rp. 2,000,-
West Manggarai Compensation Fee 1 - 3 days Rp. 20,000,- Rp. 10,000,-